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Corti Brothers Newsletter for February 2008 Page 8 Saint Laurent is a variety that most knowledgeable wine drinkers hardly recognize. It is originally from France (Alsace), not grown there anymore, but it produces wonderful wines that are just gaining a following here. Saint Laurent is of uncertain origin. Galet, the noted French ampelographer, says that it is not a pinot. Others say that it is related. We know for certain that it is early budding, early ripening, was widely planted in the 19th century, and is more prevalent in eastern than western Europe. Its name may be due to the fact that it ripens early. August 10 is the feast of St. Lawrence, and as was the case, a lot of fruit names originate with the remembrance of a particular saint. Saint Laurent produces a delicious red wine in Austria, parts of Germany (Baden, Rheinhessen), and wine producing areas like Moravia and Slovakia. I would like to point out a wonderful example of this varietal from an excellent Austrian producer Bründlmayer in the Kamptal, to the north of Vienna, a valley bordered by the Kamp river, where grape growing was first mentioned in 1082. I have liked Saint Laurent, and we have sold several bottlings from Germany, but this Bründelmayer production is noteworthy. I think this is a wine style that should be better known and definitely better appreciated in this country. Bründlmayer St. Laurent Ried Ladner 2003 was a most impressive wine at a recent large Austrian tasting. Sometimes, I think too much is made of powerful wines and delicate wines get lost. Tasting the Ladner, I noted: Light color, fragrant, balanced, elegant flavor reminiscent of Pinot Noir, but more delicate. Very, very good red wine; even served cool or cold. I remarked to the winemaker, “This is wine for drinking not tasting.” Ried in Austrian German means the same as “cru” in French. Ladner is a south facing vineyard site, over 300 meters in elevation. You need to broaden your grape varietal horizon and St. Laurent might just do the trick. Completely ready to drink, this wine is pure enjoyment.
I have written about these two cultivars before. We have just bought a lovely presentation of both of these almonds from the north eastern part of Spain, Catalunya (Catalonia). Produced by Romanico in Borges Blanques, both the Marcona and Largueta almonds are fried in extra virgin olive oil and lightly salted. Largueta almonds are a long, slender nut, very different from what we normally see as almonds on the market. Usually, they are covered with a dark, thin paper skin, which gives them a slightly bitter flavor. The Romanico Larguetas have been peeled, then fried, salted and packed. They are more “nutty” than sweet as almonds are. Intriguing, they are ever so more “more-ish.” Marcona almonds were the first different almonds to come out of Catalunya. They are almost round in shape, have a very hard shell, and until very recently, not planted in California. California produces all of the almonds produced in this country and is the major supplier to the world. Shortly, we will even have our own Marconas. Marcona almonds have a rich, soft, sweet flavor that is addictive. They are almost creamy in flavor while the Larguetas are more nutty. Both are welcome additions to the nibbles plate with an aperitif before dinner.
Since 1980, Corti Brothers has produced a traditional Seville orange marmalade from oranges growing in Sacramento. Its name is a pun: Capital, since Sacramento is California’s capital, or in British English, “Top Quality” or “First Rate.” Vintage, since it is aged before being sold. Originally, marmalade is not the product we know today. Its name comes from the Portuguese word for quince, “mermelo,” since “mermelada” is what we know as quince paste or cheese. What we know as marmalade from oranges, Seville oranges in particular, originated in Scotland. Corti Brothers Capital Vintage Marmalade is made following Mrs. Beeton’s 1866 recipe using Seville oranges, sugar, and water. Nothing else. Capital Vintage marmalade really does improve with age. The flavor mellows, becoming softer, while the sugar continues to round it out. Capital Vintage Marmalade is a very traditional flavor which may be too intense for some palates. But you should experience it, since it will liven up your morning toast. One of our customers who is fond of it wrote: “I don’t know how I would get through breakfast without it.” The current production for sale is 2005. We will begin production this month for the 2007, to be sold next year. We have a few pots available of our Bergamot Capital Vintage Marmalade. This is made from the fruit off a tree in my yard which produces very generously. Bergamot is a very special citrus taste and anyone who enjoys Earl Grey tea, knows it very well, since bergamot oil is blended into the tea. The flavor is very incisive and long lasting. Our Bergamot Marmalade is stiff and can be cut into smaller pieces when used on toast or better yet a good English muffin.
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Corti Brothers
Sacramento CA
