|
Corti Brothers Newsletter for March 2007 Page 5
Bell Rhodes 1920-2007
To a lot of people in wine and food, the name Belle Rhodes (née Ivabelle) does not strike a cord. But Belle and her husband Bernard (Barney) are possibily the most revered names in Napa Valley. Dr. Bernard is still with us, living quietly in Napa Valley, but Belle left us on February 14, 2007. I am fortunate for Belle and Barney have been friends, mentors, and traveling companions for more than 40 years. In a very quiet, determined and professional way, Belle became the “grande dame” of things culinary and vinous in Napa Valley. The Rhodes taught a whole generation of Napa Valley wine makers and chefs what wines and foods of the world were like in a Napa Valley that was very different from what it is now. They planted vineyards (Martha’s Vineyard, Bella Oaks), and were involved in more winery startups than anyone. We have come to the end of an era in California food and wine. Those of us who experienced it are indeed fortunate. Belle would have liked to have given everyone the experience. AVE ATQUE VALE, BELLE. Since 1982, Corti Brothers has offered real balsamic vinegar, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, from Reggio Emilia produced by the Violi family in Montericco di Albinea. Traditional balsamic vinegar is the real thing. It is vinegar that is produced by the acetification of boiled down grape juice, saba, and its subsequent, slow aging for years in different woods. Unless the vinegar uses the word “tradizionale,” the vinegar is not the real thing. There are only two places in Italy which can produce this vinegar: Modena and Reggio Emilia. All the other so called balsamic vinegars produced, for as good as they may be, are not the “real” thing. They are fake. Another type of “balsamic” vinegar is made. It has a different name however; it is a “condimento” a condiment and although made much like the tradizionale, it is much younger and, specifically, not so syrupy. For San Geminiano, this vinegar is called “Mastro Acetaio”, or Master Vinegar Maker. It can be used everyday and is made with the same grape syrup base as the Tradizionale. Spring is around the corner and summer is coming. Fresh greens and salads will soon feature prominently on menus. Stock up now for the coming months. The Tradizionale from San Geminiano has changed its labeling slightly. Instead of the old labels, Red, Silver, and Gold, the Red label (AS15-1970) is now Old; Gold, (AS19-1855) now Very Old. Silver, (AS18) is no longer produced. The oldest, (AN12) from casks started in 1650, remains the same. Tradizionale is used sparingly in cooking and with normal vinegar when used for salads. However, with spring strawberries coming on, one of the best ways to use the Tradizionale is a few drops on sliced ripe strawberries for dessert. Although we still have a small quantity left of SABA, boiled down must, it will not be available again until after fall, 2007. When our current supply is finished, we will have to wait for the new 2007 production.
|
Corti Brothers
Sacramento CA
