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"Where is Clarksburg?" you ask. It is a little farming community in Yolo County just south of Sacramento surrounded by intersecting rivers and sloughs that make up the northern end of the Sacramento River Delta region. Encompassing 56,900 acres in an area 16 miles long by eight miles wide, deep soiled farm land, the area produces some top notch grapes which have gone into blends from more important viticultural areas (read Napa and Sonoma.) Such as this may be, based on quality alone, Clarksburg is famous for Chenin Blanc and now, Petite Sirah. In fact, in August, 1990, Clarksburg Chenin Blanc was the subject of a wonderful article by Gerald Asher in Gourmet magazine.
Bogle Vineyards are the oldest producers in the area making wines that are nationally available and are often cited in the Wall Street Journal’s wine column. We have sold Bogle wines since the winery started. They are excellent wines and excellent values.
But I would like to tell you about four other producers from the area whose wines are special, not in wide distribution due to their small production, and something you should know about. In each case the producers use their own grapes or grapes from local growers to make their wine. For the most part, they are old line farming families who have been in the area since the turn of the 20th century. These Clarksburg producers are: Erhardt, Heringer, Six Hands, and Wilson.
Petite Sirah is a grape variety which has been grown in California since its creation. It is a cross variety created by Doctor Durif in southern France and released in 1880. From work done in 1998 by Prof. Carole Meredith, at U.C.Davis, petite sirah has been found to be the cross of peloursin x syrah. As is generally the case with grape varieties, what is planted in California vineyards as petite sirah at times is “durif,” and at the same time in the same vineyard, could be syrah, peloursin, or even pinot noir. However, petite sirah has been very welcome in California and the planting recommendations made by the University in 1940 and 1960, both recommend the variety saying: “[it is] unlikely (to have survived) in California for so long if it had not produced standard quality wine with a good, red color.” Currently, both petite sirah and durif are recognized as synonymous.
Chenin Blanc was once the darling variety of California. The market could not get enough of it. The most sought after label was Charles Krug Chenin Blanc which practically dominated the fine white wine market in the early 1960s. One of the first whites to be cold fermented in stainless steel, it was clean, fresh, fragrant, and slightly sweet. This was the first of the innovations made by the brothers Mondavi in the Napa Valley. An honorable variety, Chenin blanc is now relegated to blends and very few varietal bottlings. In Clarksburg, it is the best white variety grown. But it has to be made properly; that is, it has to be fermented in stainless steel, cleaned up, and bottled and left to age in bottle. In this respect it is like Australian semillon. Clarksburg Chenin Blanc takes to bottle very well and probably will outage red wines from the same area.
The Erhardt family were pioneers in settling the Sacramento River delta. Their memory is remembered by the winery name. In 1902, they sold some of their land to John Herzog and until 1955, the Herzog’s farmed row crops and had a dairy. The first vineyards were planted in 1960 and now are tended by Randy and Catherine Baranek, the fourth generation of the Herzog family.
Erhardt Estates Petite Sirah 2003 Wine 750ml (#9005)
Out of stock.
Sixty barrels were produced from 9 year old vines. The wine is dry with an intense black purple color, peppery scent, and a very juicy, berry-fruited flavor-- almost blackberry or mulberry. Well balanced, this wine carries its weight and flavor very well in a seamless way. Soft and attractive, it is delicious in the way only round, fleshy young wines can be. Clarksburg’s rich alluvial soils produce wines with soft tannins and enormous color.
Erhardt Estates Chenin Blanc 2001 Wine 750ml (#9006)
Out of stock.
Still a very young white wine, this shows the special character of old Chenin blanc vines from Clarksburg. Very pale color, with a still young, undeveloped but distinctively varietal aroma, it has a well balanced, full body and flavor. This is a wine for further bottle age if you like and to spring on wine loving friends at a blind tasting.
The Heringer family, Dutch immigrants, are fourth generation farmers in the Delta. Long famous for their asparagus, they have grown grapes since 1970s.
Heringer Estates Petite Sirah 2002 Wine 750ml (#9007)
Out of stock.
This Petite Sirah 2002 is the first vintage they have made for sale under the family name. Production was 375 cases. Just recently bottled, this is an inky black wine, with a lovely perfume and more tannin than the Erhardt wine. Intensely fruity, again with the deep berry character of the variety, this is another expression of the varietal.
Six Hands refers to Peter Marks, his wife and father in law, who share in the labor of this tiny production winery located in Walnut Grove . Total production is less than 1,000 cases of wine, some from estate fruit, some from selected growers.
Six Hands Petite Sirah 2002, Heringer Vineyard Clarksburg Wine 750ml (#9008)
Out of stock.
The Heringer vineyard Petite Sirah has a very dark color with a medium intense aroma, this is flavory, grapey wine, with pleasant grip, good length and finish. It mirrors petite sirah in Clarksburg.
Six Hands Petite Sirah 2002, Cresci Vineyard, Lodi Wine 750ml (#9009)
Out of stock.
Intense black color, fruity, with an austere tannic grip that needs some time to resolve, this is petite sirah grown on volcanic soil from the Herald area of Lodi. Vinification is identical to the Clarksburg wine, but the grapes are different, producing a distinct wine that needs time.
Six Hands Viognier 2003 Wine, Estate vineyard 750ml (#9010)
Out of stock.
A white peach varietal scent and flavor with excellent balance makes this a striking example of Viognier. Unfortunately, since grape production is a half ton per acre in the vineyard due to wind problems at flowering, not much is available. Viognier seems to like the Delta.
Wilson Vineyards Chenin Blanc 2001 Wine 750ml (#9011) Out of stock.
Three generations of Wilsons have farmed in Clarksburg since 1922. Their Chenin Blanc is a very good example of the varietal, green gold in color, vibrant and fresh, with a creamy character, and savory acidity.
Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc 2003 Wine 750ml (#9012)
Out of stock.
Pale color, green melon overtones, with a snappy acid background give this wine a delicious character that will improve with bottle age over 4-5 years. It is made with grapes from Salman and Baranek vineyards.
Several producers outside of Clarksburg use Clarksburg grapes and label their wines as such. When you see them, try them. They should be good.
