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Corti Brothers Newsletter for Fall 2004 Page 4
...Continued from page 3 1 2 3 << Page 4 >> COTECHINO AND WHAT GOES WITH IT COTECHINO is a special pork sausage which is one of the glories of the cuisine of Emilia Romagna, especially Modena and other areas of northern Italy. It is made from leanish pork and cooked pork skins (cotene) from which it gets its name. It is only since October 2001 that imported cotechino has been allowed in this country. The LEVONI company of Mantova produces our cotechino which comes precooked, requiring only to be heated in its pouch in simmering water for 40 minutes producing a delicious dish with its traditional flavor and consistency intact. Cotechino is a rich, unctuous sausage that is traditionally served with cooked beans, lentils or mashed potatoes as an accompaniment. (It also figures in the famous boiled dinner, the bollito misto, traditionally served in Italy during cold weather.) LEVONI COTECHINO is an I.G.P. product; that is, as Cotechino di Modena, it has a Protected Geographical Indication of Origin. It must be made to have a certain flavor and texture and come from a specified area. First described in the cookbook Apicio Moderno (1790) of Francesco Leonardi, chef to Catherine II of Russia, it can also be written as cotichin, coteghino, codechino, or codeghino. COTECHINO’S special texture and unctuousness is given by the amount of cooked pork skins that are chopped and blended with the meat. It is spiced only with salt, black pepper, cinnamon, and cloves. Shelf stable and packed one sausage per pouch in its own box, it just needs to be heated in its pouch. This is a fall/cold weather dish which normally takes a long time to prepare. The LEVONI COTECHINO DI MODENA just has to be heated. If you have been provident and cooked beans or lentils beforehand, they also just need to be reheated and when the Cotechino is ready, dinner is served. Our special PESCADERO and CAPONI beans orUMBRIAN lentils make this dish simplicity itself to prepare. All you have to do is prepare the beans and lentils beforehand. Levoni Cotechino Di Modena Pork Sausage 500g box $11.99 ROTO: THE ADULT SOFT DRINK CREATED BY WINEMAKER CARY GOTT More than thirty years ago in these pages I introduced our customers to the newly released wines of Montevina that were made by Cary Gott in Amador County. Now Cary has created another product, not a wine, but a two year in the making soft drink called ROTO. What I would call an adult soft drink, the winemaker’s soft drink, ROTO was conceived to be a drink that can be enjoyed without the mawkish, sweet character typical of American soft drinks, ROTO may not appeal to everyone. It was never intended to do so. But, if you want to enjoy a glass of something red, lightly sparkling, and not bloating with carbonation particularly when you are the “designated driver,” then ROTO is what you should try. Non sweet, vaguely citrus-y, spicy, and refreshingly astringent, ROTO is delicious. It can be used as a mixer if you are not the designated driver, blending very well with either vodka, gin, white rum, or tequila. SALAME DI FELINO or SALAME FELINO is the name of the most famous Italian dry sausage made south of Parma, in a small city of the same name. This traditional dry salame is not possible to get in the U.S., but a notable substitute is now being made in California under the brand name TICINO. I am of two minds as to using the protected name Felino for a product not coming from the area, but in reality, the taste and consistency of TICINO SALAME FELINO is remarkably like the original. Both lean and fat pork, flavored with salt, pepper, a hint
of garlic, some wine, and curing agents, comprises the ingredients. Stuffed
into a thick pork gut casing to produce a slow aging of the sausage, TICINO
SALAME FELINO comes in 1 ½ to 2 ½ pound pieces tied at both
ends. The deep red color of the sausage is very appealing and the flavor
is meaty, scented, rich, and impressive. I have never tasted an American
made product that so thoroughly resembles the original. TICINO
SALAME FELINO is perfect to have in the refrigerator for any season. A few thinnish slices
and some good bread can comprise a meal. Sliced as part of an antipasto with
other sausages or prosciutto, you have the basis for a satisfying first course
on short notice. I keep a SALAME FELINO on hand for “just in case!” GUANCIALE–A NOT OFTEN FOUND, ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT IN ITALIAN COOKING GUANCIALE is Italian style cured pork jowl not often available in this country. It is essential in certain dishes and most often must be substituted for. Corti Brothers has offered a well made example from a specialist producer in our random weight, cryovac sealed pieces. Since it is a cured fat product, GUANCIALE merely needs to be kept wrapped in the refrigerator and sliced when used. It is indispensable for spaghetti alla carbonara or bucatini all’amatriciana. Any substitute pales in comparison. It is indispensable for the authentic flavor of these two pasta dishes, where the rendered guanciale fat provides the flavor. Guanciale is also used to make the “battuto” for winter time soups. It adds flavor to bean dishes, involtini and such. Very typical of Roman cooking, there it is also called “ganascia.” Cured with pepper, salt, allspice, and garlic, it has a
special flavor and character. It is normally sliced like thickly cut bacon
and then julienned for cooking. It is streaky fat and will render out a lot
of fat. This is the reason for its OLIVE OIL FROM THE TREE TO THE TABLE: Second Edition, Paul Kiritsakis, Ph.D. The title of this olive oil book seems daunting, but this is the best text in English currently available on the production technology, composition, deterioration, and quality of olive oil. Since we are approaching the oil production season, we are offering this work to those interested in having a complete picture of this seemingly simple yet complex, topic. Its author, Apostolos (Paul) Kiritsakis, is Professor, Department of Food Technology at T.E.I. in Thessaloniki, Greece. This is the second edition, 1998, which has the most up to date production, health, and nutritional aspects. Quality parameters have not been updated to the current 2003 changes, but this is niggling. If you want to know about oil, this is the book to own. If your questions can’t be answered here, you shouldn’t ask them! Olive Oil from the Tree to the Table Paul Kiritsakis, Ph.D. Out of stock. ALMONDINA GINGERSPICE BISCUITS Here is a delicious “biscotti” type cookie: dry, crunchy, and not very sweet made with almonds and pieces of candied ginger. It is not an Italian cookie, but could be. Made from almonds, wheat flour, sugar, egg whites, and diced ginger all put into a batter and then slowly baked, sliced into 1/4 inch thick slices, they are then rebaked to become crisp. They seem almost medieval. This could be a Tuscan recipe, since a lot of Tuscan sweets were made with ginger. (The word in Italian for ginger, “zenzero,” is still used in spoken Tuscan as the word for both ginger and chile pepper, the one preceding the other, due to its piquancy.) ALMONDINA GINGERSPICE biscuits come in 4 oz clear trays, 15 slices to a tray. I enjoy them very much with wines after dinner, even dry red wines, especially when you just want something to finish off the last half glass or so. Accompanied by the LAJIDO from Pico or any of the VOR, VORS sherries they would be wonderful. Their very light sweetness, savory ginger chunks, and crunchy, sweet almonds produce a delicious ensemble of texture and flavor. Served with a glass of tawny port, sweeter Madeira, or Amoroso sherry, they would brighten up the mid morning or pick up the mid afternoon. Almondinia Gingerspice Biscuits 4 oz. tray << Back to Top |
Corti Brothers
Sacramento CA