Much has been written and said about the two most recent German vintages 2001 and 2002. They are undeniably fine. But they are so young. Riesling, probably more than any other grape variety with the possible exception of Semillon, responds to age in the most marvelous way. In fact, riesling, especially German riesling, from a good vintage and a good vineyard, is probably better with at least six to ten years of age, than it was when a charming young wine. This is not say that youth does not have its charms. It does. But the real character of riesling shows up when it has had time in bottle.

However, aged riesling is getting scarce. Here is a list some wines which we have that you might want to try while we still have them. Once gone, they are gone forever.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese 1987, J.J.Prum
Niersteiner Brudersberg Spatlese 1989, Freiherr von Heyl
Serriger Wurzberg Auslese 1989, Bert Simon
Serriger Wurzberg Auslese 1990, Bert Simon
Saarberger Rausch Spatlese 1991, Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken
Ayler Kupp Kabinett 1993, Dr. Heinz Wagner
Saarberger Rausch Kabinett 1993, Dr. Heinz Wagner
Kaseler Nieschen Auslese 1993, Wegeler, magnum
Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese 1997, J.J.Prum
Serriger Herrenberg Auslese 1999, Bert Simon

Please do not think that wines called spatlese or auslese are only sweet(ish) wines. The real beauty of German riesling--any good riesling for that matter--is, although it can have some residual sweetness, it should have a counterbalancing acidity that leaves the wine lively. With polymerization of its sugar in ageing, the wine tastes dry, with a juicy roundness. Aged riesling is wonderful with food. One just has to be adventuresome.

Probably the majority of knowledgeable California wine drinkers have never heard of Cucamonga and could not state where it is. Cucamonga is one of the earliest wine growing areas of California, east of Los Angeles, now practically bereft of vines. The vineyards have been covered over by houses, warehouses, freeways, and the Ontario International airport. The few intrepid wine growers still there produce some very interesting wines with flavor and character like no other place in California. At one time, this area was the largest vineyard in the world.

The Joseph Filippi winery has been growing grapes since 1922. The sandy soils of Cucamonga produce fine flavors in many varieties, especially Zinfandel. We have just purchased a quantity of an extremely fine, medium bodied Zinfandel, the product of old vines, which merits your attention. It is the JOSEPH FILIPPI WINEMAKER'S RESERVE, LIMITED RELEASE, 2000 CUCAMONGA VALLEY ZINFANDEL.

It has a "normal" alcohol of 13.6% with a lovely scented, berry aroma, and light wood tone, and a delicate, elegant body and lots of flavor. Tannin and acid are well balanced, without the hot, porty character currently all the rage in California Zinfandel. Here is a wine that is savory, very drinkable and the product of 75 year old head pruned vines from the winery's Foothill Ranch and retrained, restaked vines from the Clark Ranch vineyard in Etiwanda. It is quite frankly a delicious wine of a style rarely encountered today.