Harold Olmo: His Grapes, Early Muscat and Ruby Cabernet
and their Wines H.P.O. 2004 and Dickerson Vineyard Ruby Cabernet
This is the second time Corti Brothers has labeled a wine made from the early muscat variety, under our own label calling the wine H.P.O. for Harold Paul Olmo, the 97 year old emeritus (but not retiring) professor of viticulture at the University of California, Davis, who is the variety’s creator. This wine proved to be successful in the 2001 vintage, and with the fine 2004 vintage I decided again to bring Professor Olmo’s work to our customers’ notice. This time, it is accompanied by a red variety, ruby cabernet, another of Olmo’s creations.
Creating new grape varieties is not for the faint of heart. From the time a cross is made, to the time when the result is released, decades may pass. But this is Olmo’s work. Early muscat was bred in 1943 and introduced in 1958. It was created as a table variety for California, but in Oregon it produces a delicious aromatic wine. Its parents are two table varieties, one black--Muscat Hamburg--and a white Hungarian variety--Muscat Queen of the Vineyard. The genealogy of these varieties is fairly complex with French, Italian, Scottish, Hungarian and smatterings of unknown provenance in the blood lines.
Sylvan Ridge, known also as Hinman Vineyards in Eugene, Oregon, vinifies early muscat planted in the Willamette and contiguous valleys as a low alcohol, slightly sparkling wine similar to Piemontese Moscato d’Asti. The cool climate of Oregon allows this variety to be vinified as a fine wine, rather than being used for raisins, as happens in California.
I like this wine very much. Our changing its name to H.P.O. is not to disinform our customers, but to acknowledge, once again, the life’s work of a dedicated scientist, who works quietly and doggedly to produce better grapes for both wine and table. There is nothing showy here, just dedicated hard work.
Low in alcohol, 6%, scented with the musky perfume of nutmeg, pear, and white peaches, it has lively acidity and a slight sparkle that provides both palate refreshment and piquancy. Made to be drunk while young, fresh, and lively, it should keep well for 2-3 years and honors the creator who crossed it, the winery that made it, and those of us who get to drink it. This is the perfect summertime wine and probably the perfect anytime wine.
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